Good down-home cookin’ at the Cracker Box diner

Visit the Cracker Box diner and time-travel back to “Happy Days” of the 1950s in small-town USA. Inside the square, cream-colored building at the corner of E. William and Stewart Streets, Formica tables, red and yellow vinyl-covered chairs and booths are a nostalgic reminder of simpler times. Sit on stools at the counter for creamy, old fashioned shakes and malts in tall tin shakers, just right for sipping through a straw – two straws, if two are cozy.

The cheerful staff and efficient short-order cooks turn out an amazing amount of delicious, well-prepared food, cooked to order and served with a smile.

Hearty home-style breakfasts, served any time of the day, have customers lining up on weekends. Come early to fuel up the day with classic egg dishes, huge yummy omelets, pancakes, and fresh-squeezed orange juice; all are all terrific.

“Soon-to-be world-famous” house spuds – crispy pan-fried potatoes with chopped red bell pepper and green onion – are a must with breakfast or as a side dish anytime. Portions are large, and leftovers can be packed to take home in biodegradable, treated-paper boxes.

Lunch choices, also served any time, include prime beef burgers, hot and cold sandwiches, salads, homemade soups, and full meals like chicken fried steak, veal liver and onions, fried oysters, and fresh grilled fish.

Sandwiches are generous and very filling. Grilled ham ‘n cheese is made with jack, cheddar, and plenty of well-flavored ham, nicely grilled with a buttery toast crust. Burgers are thick, juicy and cooked perfectly as ordered. Topping choices include Ortega chile, bacon, bleu cheese, mushroom or any combination. A burger with sautéed mushrooms and all the trimmings, measured four-inches high! Thankfully, the toasted burger buns have enough density to hold it all together.

Thick-sliced French fries are batter-coated and fried extra crispy. Salad dressings are freshly made, and the bleu cheese has lots of nice creamy chunks. Ask for dressings on the side to avoid over-dressing on the fresh greens. A very nice cole slaw combines shredded cabbage with mayo, garlic and celery salts, pepper and raisins. Not the usual and very good.

From the daily specials board, a thick and tasty split pea soup and a well-seasoned meatloaf sandwich were nicely made. “They taste like something I’d make at home,” said a dining companion visiting from Savannah, high praise from a good southern home-cook.

Taco salad made with spicy ground beef, greens with mild Ranch dressing, two kinds of cheese, and crispy tortilla chips was mild before adding some spicy hot tomato and jalapeno salsa, served on the side. This dish was good and would have been better with avocado, not included or offered. Fresh steamed broccoli and zucchini, served as a side with another special, were perfect – bright green and slightly firm.

Some grilled and fried dishes are calorie-laden, but the menu offers low-cal options for health-conscious diners. Nothing seems overly seasoned. If you want more salt you can add it. Same goes for sugar in the “very real” lemonade, which is tart and lemony.

The Cracker Box has been a Carson City institution and locals’ favorite since 1980. Owner Jerry Massad’s extended family has had restaurants in San Francisco, Oakland and Reno since the early 1930s. Historic family photos line the walls, along with mind-bending photos of fruits and vegetables, not created by Mother Nature. Be sure to take a close-up look; these are fun!

A sign outside the diner and on each coffee mug reads: “Twenty-eight years and we’re still cookin.” The affable owner walks the room, keeping an eye on things, chatting with regulars, and meeting new customers. Jerry knows this is a people business; he and his friendly staff make sure everyone has a good meal and a good time.

He admits to “missing the mark a couple of days now and again,” but longevity and loyal customer don’t lie. The Cracker Box has a winning formula for a great little diner done right.

The Cracker Box is open seven days a week from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m., seven days a week – most weeks. No website; no reservations; no credit cards; just come as you are and bring old-fashioned cash or a check. For more information or directions call 775-882-4556.