Savor real Southern barbecue at Locals BBQ & Grill. Ya’ll come!

Hankerin’ for authentic Southern barbecue? Locals BBQ & Grill is the where to find the real thing north and west of the Mason Dixon Line. Owner Ralph Swagler hails from Ft. Benning, Georgia where his mother Mary was one of those great Southern cooks that myths are made of.

“It’s all about taste and flavors,” says Ralph who makes a pilgrimage each year to the Holy Grail of Southern barbecue –Georgia, Tennessee, and the Carolinas – where he swaps ideas with barbecue masters.

“Cooks in the South are open and willing to share. I always learn new techniques to try.”

A complete BBQ meal at Locals comes with two sides plus crusty cheese/garlic bread. You can order “wet” with sauce; “dry” with rub; or “lite” with one side dish. Prices on the extensive menu range from $4.89 for a large hot dog – eight inches on average and “barking to be eaten!” – to a complete dinner with full rack of 12 to 13 ribs for $22.99. Not so hungry? Have a hamburger, wrap or sandwich. A children’s menu has kid-size portions for $3.40 to $5.50.

Brave souls with iron stomachs can challenge the rib-eating record for the honor of their name on a wall plaque. Thirty was the number to beat at the time of this writing. The gauntlet has been thrown…anyone for thirty-one?

As a first-timer with a small stomach, I chose to sample the menu by ordering the “Locals Combo” – half a Polish Kielbasa, two mini pulled pork and tri-tip sandwiches, two pork ribs, one beef rib, cucumber salad, and cheese/garlic bread. I can’t believe I ate the whole thing! My dining companion had a tri-tip “Smith” sandwich made with fresh cilantro and grilled Anaheim chilies, grown in Ralph’s home garden. Why “Smith”? You’ll have to ask Ralph.

Everything we tasted was mmmm good!

The meats are slow-cooked overnight and so tender you won’t need a knife, although large sharp blades are provided in a small tin bucket. The best method, and the accepted Southern way, is hands-on. Mom’s Original sauce is sweet, thick, gooey, and great for finger lickin’. If you choose to dive in, be thankful for wet towelettes and a roll of paper towels at each table, easily pulled from a stand made from pipe fittings. Finger bowls would be a welcome addition.

“You won’t find cold BBQ sauce on the table,” says Ralph. “Wet” barbecue arrives generously coated, accompanied by warm sauce on the side. If you run out, the friendly server will bring more. And you can purchase pints and quarts to take home. Choose from the Original or an even-sweeter Hog’s Heaven sauce for pulled pork and tenderloin. The Gold Dust Rub is made with 17 secret ingredients. Like The Colonel, only better!

Some say barbecue calls for beer or soda. Both are on the menu but Ralph is a wine guy, having spent time in Sonoma County as a wine educator at Santa Rosa Junior College and a judge in local wine competitions. He knows what wines go with barbecue, and he knows value. The small wine list is well-priced by the bottle and glass.

Side dishes include French fries, baked beans and salads, including a lightly sweet and peppery Cole Slaw. “The best I’ve ever tasted!” pronounced my dining companion. A lovely cucumber salad combines cool, crunchy sliced cucumber and green onion in a delicate dressing – yogurt-base, mayo maybe and sweet cream? We tried to dissect mom’s recipe.

“Everyone guesses and no one gets it right,” says Ralph. The dressing remains a secret, like the sauces.

The only dessert served at Locals is homemade pecan pie. Why? What Southerner would want anything else, except Key Lime but not with barbecue.

Good pecan pie is an art, and Ralph’s son Ryan is the artist. Handmade from scratch, the tender, flaky crust is filled with light, mildly sweet custard, topped with whole, roasted pecans and served warm. Add a scoop of real vanilla ice cream if you dare.

“Divine!” said my dining companion. “Yummy!” said I. You can buy a whole perfect pie for $15.99.

Look for the neon sign at 3849 So Carson St., across from Casino Fandango. Call them at (775) 841-9999. No need for reservations; just show up hungry between 11:14 and 8:30 p.m., Sunday thru Wednesday; until 9 p.m. Thursday thru Saturday.

For real Nevada history and a bit of fantasy, check out “Locals Story” on the website, www.lbbq.com. It’s fun and factual, to a point. This skilled restaurateur has a good sense of humor and a serious interest in flavorful food. Locals BBQ is Finger-lickin’-good. Ya’ll come!