Nugget Steakhouse is a potential gem

Inside the Carson Nugget casino, just steps from flashing lights and poker machines, lies a peaceful oasis for fine dining. The Steakhouse evokes a bygone era of rustic elegance: maroon leather booths line the faux used-brick walls hung with gild-framed paintings. The room is softly lit with candelabra chandeliers and wall sconces. Add a menu of high quality meats and seafood, and the Steakhouse has all the major elements for fine dining. Minor adjustments and polishing will reveal the promise in this hidden gem.

The kitchen uses fresh ingredients. Dressings and sauces are well made with an occasional variation on classic preparations. Crab cake appetizers are moist with a crisp crust and nicely spiced. The cakes are served with a tasty white corn relish and roasted red pepper variation on a classic French rémoulade.

Pepper-crusted and seared slices of Ahi tuna are very fresh and perfectly prepared. The fish is served with a unique cabbage slaw, combining pickled ginger and soy ginger glaze on a wasabi cream. The taste is spicy, sweet and sour, a hot Asian complement to the cool Ahi that melts in the mouth as good Ahi should.

Caesar salad and small dinner salad are nicely made with crisp hearts of Romaine and tender baby greens. Both are a bit overdressed for my taste, and the Caesar would be nicer with shaved Parmesan cheese, as stated on the menu, rather than grated.

To refresh diners’ palates, the restaurant presents small flutes of tangy lemon sorbet served between salad and entrée courses – a nice touch.

At our table, both filet mignon steaks were perfectly cooked as ordered, juicy and flavorful. The Au Poivre filet, seared with a crunchy pepper crust, was served on a rich green peppercorn demi-glace – quite nice! Prime rib also had a delicious flavor, although one diner thought it was a bit dry. A generous lobster tail was tender and buttery.

All the plates are artistically presented, with generous entrée portions. Booths feel cozy for two, but were a little crowded for more.

Sides of sautéed fresh spinach, tossed with garlic and olive oil, were a bit hit. The delicate flavor of fresh asparagus would have shown better with less butter and a slight crunch. Yukon Gold potatoes, mashed with their skins, showed off the natural buttery flavor of these delicious potatoes. I only wished for a bit more moisture to add softness.

For those who prefer to have wine choices suggested, the list presents flights from three featured wineries – Jewel Collection, Chateau St. Michelle, and Charles Krug – allowing guests to try several different wines. If they chose to purchase a bottle, the flight is complimentary. The remainder of the wine list, while not extensive, offers quality bottles, a majority in the $20 to $50 range and a limited number of wines by the glass from $5 to $12.

Desserts are made on-premise and on the whole are quite good. Chocolate passion cake was rich and satisfying. Flaming crème brûlée with raspberry liqueur put on quite a show. Less emphasis on the crisp burnt sugar top and more of the creamy custard would make this classic dessert a real winner. The favorite at our table was Tiramisù. Lovely, integrated flavors of espresso, light chocolate, cream, and delicate cake came close to the heavenly lightness pastry chefs strive for with this Italian classic, translated “carry me up”; it almost did.



The Carson Nugget Steak House is open weekdays from 5 to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday from 5 to 10 p.m. The restaurant is closed Mondays and Tuesdays. Dinner reservations are recommended but not required. To reserve, call 775- 882-1626, ext. 247. Visit the website www.ccnugget.com for directions to the Nugget and details on the menu.